Thailand · 2024
Thailand was really two trips in one: the green, misty north around Chiang Mai and Pai, then the southern islands, winding up in Bangkok before the flight home.
It started up north around Chiang Mai: buzzing night markets, a morning with elephants, white-water rafting, jungle waterfalls and a hill-tribe village, plus a side trip up to the tea hills of Chiang Rai.
The days swung between adrenaline and calm: rafting and waterfalls one minute, a village loom or a quiet tea hillside the next.
Then up to Chiang Rai for a day of temples and color: a hillside tea estate, the red pagoda and giant white Guan Yin of Wat Huay Pla Kang, and a night market glowing pink. The drive even threw in a steaming roadside hot spring and a temple the monkeys had taken over.
The White Temple, Wat Rong Khun, was the strangest of all: bright white and mirror-flecked, with a field of reaching hands at the bridge and silver wish plaques jingling overhead.
Then a run up to Pai, slower and greener: rice fields, a misty valley, a rainy walking street, and a scooter ride out to a steaming hot spring.
Between the big sights, the small stuff was half the fun: night markets, trays of mochi, flower stalls, and slow evenings by the river with friends.
Then south to the islands, starting with a short flight into Koh Samui's little garden airport.
A ferry over to Ko Tao, then island time: a climb to a viewpoint over a turquoise bay, palms down to the water, a sunset swim, fresh coconuts, and a fire show on the beach after dark.
Ko Tao had a boat day in it too: out by longtail to snorkel among the granite boulders and pull up on quiet beaches, then sunset drinks at a hilltop bar.
Back on Ko Samui, the day was all jet skis: a tour out across a calm green bay, opening it up on the open water, and dinner to finish.
Then over to Phuket, the big-island version of all this: driving everywhere, long beaches, and even a water park.
A day out into Phang Nga Bay: a speedboat through the limestone karsts, kayaking under the cliffs, and a roadside fruit stop.
And the nights: the Naka weekend market, the neon of Patong's Bangla Road, and a quieter clifftop sunset to balance it out.
A boat over to Koh Phi Phi: clear turquoise under the cliffs, longtails everywhere, kayaks on the sand, and the bay hemmed in by karsts.
And the rest of it: coconuts on the walking street, lanterns over the lanes at night, and a fire show on the beach.
The last stretch was Bangkok, a loud, sprawling city to land in after weeks of beaches and mountains.
Lumphini is a piece of green dropped into the middle of the towers, and the water monitors wander it like they own the place.
And then the flight home.